You’ve likely heard someone referring to the Nullarbor as the “Nullar-BORE”, most of us have, and honestly, a lot of us have said it ourselves. After all, there’s not a whole lot that’s exciting about a 1,256 kilometre drive across the country where you’re heading down the blacktop on straight roads (including of course, the 90 mile straight) with not a lot to see, bar a few roadhouses and treeless plains. But what if I told you there was a way to make the Nullarbor not just a journey, but a destination in itself?
Truck driving on the Nullarbor at night
You may be surprised to learn there are a bunch of gems along the Nullarbor Plain that so many of us are guilty of flying straight past to get to our destination. I totally get it, Esperance is calling you or the gentle giants of the north are bellowing at you to hurry up and arrive for your whale shark tour in Exmouth. However, if you’ve got time to spare and you’re looking to spruce up your Nullarbor run, this is the yarn for you.
Heading West to East
Josh and I recently left Esperance to head back to the East Coast, so in this yarn we’re talking about that direction of travel when I share destination order. If you’re instead on your way to WA, simply reverse.
From Balladonia
Around a kilometre from Balladonia roadhouse there is a dirt road off-shoot where you’ll find Balladonia-Parmango Road. This unmaintained 4WD track is impassable when wet, 4WD only and not recommended for caravans. Making sure to first air down, it pays to take this road slowly, with a number of wash outs, obstacles and bone-rattling corrugations along the track. You’ll pass through a photo opportunity: a gate covered in travellers' clothing (mostly underwear and bras), which if you’ve spent much time in the Outback and at Outback pubs, you’ll know for some reason this tradition is widespread. Personally, once I’ve seen my first bra hanging in a tree or slung across a fence I know I’ve reached the Outback.
As you make your way down, heading straight past the ‘3 tonne limit sign’ you’ll eventually make your way to Booanya rock, which although impressive enough from the ground, can be climbed to view the incredible surrounding landscape. At the very top, you’ll find two ladders which you can climb (at your own risk) to reach the highest point. I would suggest heeding caution as they were not sturdy enough for my liking and although the ever-risky Josh Leonard made his way up, the sound of me yelling “Okay, get down now!” multiple times echoed all around us.
By the rock you’ll find ruins of an old outstation building which we loved exploring. It felt like hopping back in time and imagining what life was like for those who came before us.
Old roadhouse sign off the Nullarbor, WA
Make sure to leave no trace and take all of your rubbish with you upon leaving. The flies can be pretty nuts out there so wear your fly net for comfort and as always in the Aussie bush, be on the lookout for snakes and have your snakebite kit handy where all convoy members know where to find it. An EPIRB is never a bad item to have on board too, just in case something goes really wrong and help needs to be called in. Since we frequent the Outback often and love to spend a lot of time in remote Australia, we always have one on board, so if that’s not already the case for you then make sure to pick one up.
Once you’ve gotten your Outback fix and taken enough pictures of the enormous rock, to head back onto the Nullarbor run you’ll come out the way you came. It’s worth noting that many complete this track starting from Condingup and following it through to the Eyre Highway. If you go that way it can serve as a shortcut through Cape Arid National Park, so that’s also an option to head through that way.
Bunda Cliffs
One of the highlights of the Nullarbor run for me has always been Bunda Cliffs. There’s something so spectacular about looking out over the edge, knowing there’s nothing but sea between you and Antarctica. If you’re lucky and there at the right time of the season (August), you can spot whales as they migrate past!
When visiting Bunda Cliffs you need to be very cautious as large sections of the limestone edge is actively crumbling, so there is an element of danger to keep in mind. Due to wind, rain and wave activity, the cliffs are receding and given the erosion, camping is not recommended with many sections closed. There are three designated clifftop lookouts that offer safe views, so it’s worth doing your research ahead of time so you know where to stop to take your Instagram pictures.
Koonalda Homestead and Cave
This one is a very special spot, especially for those interested in learning about Australian pastoral history and Indigenous Dreamtime stories. 14 kilometres off the blacktop on a dirt road will lead you to Koonalda Homestead, a home that was leased by the Grundy family from 1938 to 1988. A time capsule of a past era, this spot was once a fuel station, family home and spot where weary travellers could take a rest and meet fellow truck drivers, travelling circus members, business people and adventurers alike. You have the opportunity to walk through the sea of abandoned, old cars that are scattered across the land, the old homestead and the outbuildings.
An old rusted car
An old wooden wagon at the Nullarbor Roadhouse
Now managed by Parks, there are signposts here with plenty of information on the history of Koonalda Homestead.
Koonalda Cave is an extremely significant spot for the traditional owners, the Mirning People, and for the history of the land. Before Koonalda Cave was studied by archaeologist Dr Alexander Gallus, the earliest date for human occupation in Australia was understood to be 8,700 years ago. In 1956, Gallas dated the archaeological remains and finger markings at Koonalda to 22,000 years ago, which was later confirmed using radiocarbon technology. This discovery transformed our understanding of the extraordinary age of Aboriginal art, archaeology and occupation in Australia and thus it is a National Heritage site.
The cave itself is off-limits to preserve this part of history and after being victim to vandalism in 2022 that damaged cave art beyond repair, security cameras have been installed to ensure the preservation of the site. You can still drive up to the sinkhole to take a look, but you need to remain outside of the fence. There’s a staircase that’s been built from the car park, leading you down to the sinkhole, with essential information and pictures of this wonderful place along the way.
Man standing over a sinkhole with a 4X4 and caravan in the background
I’d suggest camping here the night at Koonalda Homestead to have enough time to explore the place then enjoy the beautiful sunset over the iconic Australian bush landscape. Be on the lookout for dingoes, we spotted some of the healthiest looking dingoes we’ve ever seen whilst stopped here.
Don’t Rush It: The Best Parts of the Nullarbor Are Off the Highway
Still think the Nullarbor is simply a thoroughfare? I’ll forgive you for once palming it off as just a long drive you’ve got to tick off. Next time you cross the country, make sure to stop in to some of these incredible spots and check out what adventure awaits you along the Nullarbor. Might I suggest the classic “Sail the Nullarbor” by John Williamson tune for the playlist?
Hitting the road (or off it)?
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